The name no doubt derives from its proximity to the Four Courts, and no doubt many an affluent barrister and well-to-do solicitor comprise the bulk of the well-heeled and conspicuously moneyed clientele. Ordinary scum like us are less welcome, especially if we have no appetite for their gastritis-inflected food – it seems expressly designed for wining and dining and taking pictures of one's dinner to upload as food porn on Instagram. Give it a miss and go to M. Hughes or Chancery Inn instead.

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