We arrived in the wake of a massive and very sudden rain shower – having previously been availing of the threadbare shelter of intermittent trees, we were grateful for the more solid relief of a roof over the head and Beamish in the gullet. The walls have the token pictures of Joyce and Wilde – the skylights in the ceiling are notable for their impressive collections of mould, obscuring the light and endangering the breathers below. A last unique note – Martin's boasts the smallest toilet in Dublin, smaller even than that of the Dawson Lounge, itself the official smallest pub. But Martin's surpasses even that – this toilet is a glorified closet, with room only for a small sink and a tiny urinal that could at an uncomfortable squeeze accommodate only two urinators at best, making for uneasy urinating in the discomfiting midst of such unsought urinary intimacy.

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