366) The Wren’s Nest of Strawberry Beds, Chapelizod, Dublin 20
This charming out-of-the-way hostelry boasts a pebbledashed popcorn exterior very much like yer granny’s countryside cottage, and indeed it is a converted country cottage. The surrounding trees are broccollian or strawberrian, depending on whether you like your concocted adjective fruity or vegetarian. It’s a popular spot with passing cyclists - more bikes than cars. Within, one finds a very low ceiling en-route to the jacks, so watch your heads tall chaps. A more comfortable room with an open fire called ‘The Tap Room’ may be gotten if lucky. The Tap Room coupled as a morgue back in the days where dead bodies were laid out in certain pubs, and The Wren’s Nest had its fair share of corpses owing to its proximity to the weir in the river Liffey - drownings were not uncommon. Nowadays food markets and music sessions are in abundance at ‘The Wren’s’ on weekends.
At the time of our visit (Bloomsday 2021, when Covid restrictions were only partially lifted), a select band of loyal old-timers were allowed to drink inside, some without masks - blatant benders of rules, but them rules ain’t for regulars, only irregulars such as we. There would appear to be no Garda presence to speak of, for it is proudly set amid the veritable sticks and proudly self-regulating.
A long history is attached to this place which was built circa 1588 according to their official website [1] which caused proprietors to boldly state that the ‘Wren’s Nest is as old as Trinity College!’ This would certainly make it the oldest pub in Dublin. It has been in the present family for over 5 generations dating back to the 1800s. Famous visitors include Mick Jagger, The Dubliners, Julia Roberts, Daniel Day Lewis, Guy Richie and Packie Bonner. In fact, the photo on the front cover of the album At Home With The Dubliners is a shot of the band in front of a roaring fire in this very pub.
There was a chatty fatty barman who took pride in his short pipes and fine tasting pints - he specifically inquired about the Villager Bar on the main street of Chapelizod (still shut at the time). The amiable lady of the house is called Oona and she will hail you a taxi at the click of a button. A very handy service, since you’d be hard pressed to catch a bus, especially if midnight is creeping in and you’re already wrecked from the lengthy walk all the way from the Mullingar House (like us). Great outdoor setting and middle-of-nowhere vibe about it all. This feels very much the last stop before the Pale - located at walking or pissing or spitting distance near the borders of no less than three counties, Dublin, Kildare and Meath. We sat under the stars and toasted this delectable place, our very outer limit. Hallelujah, hallelujah, hail to the wren, the wren, the pearl of all bars.
The Wren’s Nest circa 1940
FOOTNOTE
[1] For a detailed history of the Wren’s Nest see: https://thewrensnest.ie/history/
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