400) The Blue Light of Barnacullia, Sandyford, D18

We deliberately reserved this gem to take pride of place as the FOUR HUNDREDTH PUB we had visited and it was well worth the wait. It is one of the highest pubs in the country, situated at a lofty vantage well up in the Dublin mountains, and boasts the finest view of Dublin in Dublin, with Dalkey Head, the Hill of Howth, the Sandymount Towers and sundry other landmarks all visible beneath one’s feet. The small and cosy bar seems unchanged since the 1700s, and boasts a roaring turf fire, frequently replenished, whose glorious heat was very welcome as we visited in the chilly dying days of December 2022 in the company of wild goose David ‘Dotsie’ Saunders.

The larger lounge serves a more extensive menu and boasts a lending library. In the summer one may sit outside at varying levels (such as the upstairs Conservatory) and drink in the stunning view. The bus 44B comes by perhaps four times a day and stops right outside the pub to take one back into town - though how it can fit on those winding and deathly narrow mountain paths is anyone’s guess - most people favour taking a taxi anyway. An intriguing old map of Dublin circa 1795 is to be admired on the mustard walls, cobwebs are left (and rightly so) and the establishment is cheeringly doggy and kiddy-friendly - two such barking and bickering dogs began fighting and mauling each other outside, a merry bit of canine cabaret. The Guinness costs five euro twenty, none too shabby in times like these. The quality of the pint was excellent even though it took some adjusting of our palates - all too accustomed to Beamish. ‘I’ll take away the evidence!’ said the baldy barman to the baldy Publopedians as he cleared away our glasses from the windowsill on which we left them - and through this window, we could see distant ships and schooners and sundry seafaring vessels navigating the blue of Dublin bay as we drank.

Food could be purchased on the premises. Roger Moore as James Bond played wordlessly on the muted telly. It was quiet when we went in, but filled up rapidly as the hours elapsed, and soon was buzzing with cyclists and rangers, backpacks and sweat - yet still at times a strange hush would fall and the clamour would sink and still, as though one had spoken an obscenity out of turn and all were observing a pregnant and scarified silence. A classic old timer at the counter, with shaggy white hair and gnarled and knotty walking stick, was observed to be downing golden or amber whiskeys alongside his stout, the tall and the short, classic combo. Another old timer who bore a pedo cap was seen drinking Tuborg. Our visit was also distinguished by a mishap that befell poor Mr. Saunders, who all of a sudden began spraying Guinness all over our hats and scarves and phones and table, all on account of a small speckle of King Crisp which had gotten caught in his esophagus. Poor fellow, but at least he didn’t puke - as seemed at first threatened by his heaving shoulders and violently spluttering mouth.

All in all, this is a special pub [1]. The location makes it coveted, the views are spectacular, the open fire makes it comfortable and the toilets are in an outhouse! It’s one of the finest pubs in the greater Dublin area - and we the Publopedians were moved to declare: ‘It’d be a perfect pub - if only it did a Beamish.’

Footnote:

[1] Excerpt taken from the official website: www.thebluelight.ie :

‘THE HISTORY OF THE BLUE LIGHT

They say that granite in the mountain breeds a certain kind of men. The Blue Light is a pub built from hand-cut stone in Barnacullia – from the Irish ‘top of the woods’ – a small village community set amongst the old granite quarries in the Dublin Mountains.

When the pub began entertaining quarrymen in the 1700s, taxes on imported spirits were so high that the locals needed to be resourceful. They devised a plan.

Once the coast was clear of customs officials, the locals lit a blue ship’s lantern at the front of the pub which could be seen by the smuggler boats, below in Dublin Bay. The Blue Light shining from the mountaintop signalled to the smugglers that they could bring their contraband spirits ashore and up to Barnacullia. It also let the locals know that the party was about to get started.

Although the smugglers have long since departed, The Blue Light still shines every night to welcome in locals and visitors alike for Guinness, Irish whiskey, good music and great craic.’

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